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How to patch a hole in drywall

Most wall holes are a one-afternoon fix. Match the method to the size of the hole, take your time with thin coats, and the patch will disappear under paint.

Updated · 7 min read

  • DifficultyEasy
  • Time30 minutes of work, plus drying time
  • If you need helpHandyman

A doorknob that swung too hard, a picture hook pulled out, a nail head pushing up through the paint. Drywall gets dinged in every home, and the good news is that it is one of the most forgiving materials to repair. You do not need special skills. You need the right patch for the size of the hole and a little patience.

The secret is thin coats. Most patches that look bad were filled in one thick glob. Several thin layers, each one a bit wider than the last, blend into the wall and are much easier to sand.

Plan on 30 minutes or so of actual work. The rest is waiting for each coat to dry, so a medium or large patch usually spreads over a day or two.

What you'll need

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Most of these belong in a basic home toolkit, so you will use them again.

Nail pops and small holes (under 1 inch)

Nail holes, screw holes and small dents only need spackle. DAP recommends spackling alone for holes under about an inch.

A nail pop is a little bump or circle where a nail has worked loose and pushed the paint out. If you just cover it, it usually comes back. Fix the loose fastener first.

  1. Secure the board. For a nail pop, use a stud finder to confirm the stud. Drive a drywall screw into the stud about an inch or two above and below the popped nail, so the head sits just below the surface without tearing the paper. Then tap the old nail back in or pull it out.
  2. Clean the spot. Trim any loose paper or crumbs with a utility knife and wipe off dust.
  3. Fill it. Press spackle into the hole with a narrow putty knife, then drag the knife across it to leave a smooth, flat surface. A slight hump is fine; you will sand it.
  4. Let it dry, then sand. Follow the dry time on the container. Sand lightly with a fine sanding sponge until it feels flush with the wall. Add a second thin coat if it sank.
  5. Prime and paint. Some spackles say on the label that they do not need primer. If yours does not say that, prime the spot so it does not show as a dull patch.

Medium holes (about 1 to 4 inches)

For holes about the size of a doorknob or a fist, a self-adhesive mesh patch gives the filler something to grab. This is the most common repair.

  1. Trim the edges. Cut away loose paper and broken bits so the edge of the hole is clean and nothing sticks up.
  2. Stick on the mesh. Pick a patch that reaches at least an inch past the hole on every side. Press it flat.
  3. First coat. Spread compound over the mesh with a wide knife, pressing it into the holes in the mesh. Keep it thin. You should still see the mesh pattern faintly.
  4. Second and third coats. After each coat dries, scrape off any ridges and add another thin coat a couple of inches wider than the last. Feather the outer edges so they fade into the wall.
  5. Sand, prime, paint. Sand with medium grit, then fine grit. Wipe off the dust with a barely damp cloth, prime, and paint.

Large holes (bigger than about 4 inches)

Holes this size need a new piece of drywall. You have two good options.

Backer patch

  1. Square up the hole. Shine a light inside to check for wires or pipes. Then cut the damaged area into a neat square or rectangle with a utility knife or drywall saw.
  2. Add support. Install drywall repair clips on the edges of the hole, or screw thin strips of wood inside the hole behind the edges so the new piece has something to attach to.
  3. Fit the patch. Cut a piece of drywall the same thickness as your wall to fit the opening. Screw it to the clips or wood strips with the screw heads just below the surface.
  4. Tape the seams. Spread compound over the seams, press drywall tape into it, and smooth it flat. Let it dry.
  5. Finish. Add two or more thin, wider coats, sanding lightly between them. Prime and paint.

California patch

This one skips the clips. Square up the hole, then cut a drywall piece about 2 inches larger than the hole in each direction. On the back, score and snap away the gypsum around the edges while leaving the front paper attached, so you have a plug that fits the hole with about a 1-inch paper border around it. Spread compound around the hole, press the plug in, and smooth the paper border flat. Finish with thin, wide coats, just like a taped seam.

When to call a pro

Stop and get help if:

  • The hole is bigger than about a foot across, or the damage runs along a corner or ceiling.
  • The drywall is soft, stained or sagging. That points to a leak, and the leak needs to be found first.
  • You see wires, pipes or a gas line in the opening, or you cut into something you did not expect.
  • Your home was built before 1978 and you have not had the paint and wall compound tested. EPA recommends a certified lead inspector or risk assessor, and suspected asbestos should be sampled by a trained professional.
  • You see mold on the back of the drywall.

Renters, check with your landlord before cutting into a wall. Many leases cover wall repairs. A handyman can usually patch, texture and paint in one visit. Not sure? Try the fix-or-call quiz.

Keep it from happening again

  • Add a doorstop or a hinge-pin stop behind any door that swings into a wall.
  • Use proper wall anchors rated for the weight of what you hang, or screw into a stud.
  • Fix nail pops with screws, not just spackle, so they do not keep coming back.
  • Watch for bubbling or stains, and look for leaks early. Review the home repair safety basics before bigger projects.

Common questions

Can I use spackle on a big hole?

Not by itself. Spackle alone works for holes under about an inch. Anything bigger needs something behind it or over it, like a self-adhesive mesh patch or a piece of new drywall, or the filler will crack and fall out.

Why does my patch show through the paint?

Usually the patch was not feathered out wide enough, or it was not primed. Add a thin, wider coat, sand it smooth, prime the patch, then paint the whole wall section from corner to corner if you can.

How long should I wait between coats?

It depends on the product, how thick the coat is, and the humidity in the room. Follow the drying time on the container, and wait longer if the patch still looks darker or feels cool to the touch.

Is it safe to sand old walls?

Not if you do not know what is in them. Homes built before 1978 may have lead paint, and older patching compounds may contain asbestos. Get the surface tested or hire a pro before you sand or cut it.

Sources

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